SADO ISLAND

From Niigata Port, it’s about an hour by jetfoil to Sado Island, home to the internationally protected Japanese crested ibis. With an area of approximately 855 square kilometer —approximately 1.4 times the size of Tokyo’s 23 wards— Sado is the largest island off the coast of Honshu. With its terrain offering different landscapes from east to west and north to south, the island is said to represent a microcosm of Japan itself.

Sado's history dates back 10,000 years, as evidenced by artifacts from ancient sites. It is even mentioned in the "Kojiki" (Records of Ancient Matters) chronicle of ancient mythology, appearing as the seventh of the Great Eight Islands in the tale of Japan's creation. During the Nara period Sado was used as a place of exile for aristocrats and intellectuals such as Emperor Juntoku, Saint Nichiren, and the Noh playwright Zeami. Their time on the island, along with trade from the Kitamaebune shipping routes from the early modern period through the Meiji era, helped Sado develop a rich cultural heritage and proud history of traditional performing arts. The recent registration of "Sado Island's Gold Mines" as a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage site in July 2024 serves as a testimony to this rich legacy of culture.

This historically beautiful land continues to attract people from both Japan and abroad. In the few years since the start of the Reiwa era (2019), around 500 to 600 people have relocated to the island each year, despite its small population of just over 50,000. Both locals and newcomers alike share the same sentiment, smiling brightly as they say, "the food is great, and the people are wonderful".

Aside from its famous Koshihikari rice and sake, Sado is blessed with a bounty of delicious food, including fruits like persimmons and the black fig variety known as “Violette de Solliès," Sado beef, seafood like snow crabs and yellowtail, and seaweed, to name just a few. While the island’s produce is certainly a major draw, its people are truly at the heart of what makes Sado special. One young couple opened a bistro after moving to the island: a Frenchman, a bakery owner from New York who was once a musician, and a Frenchwoman, who was employed as a tarai-bune boat rower during her working holiday. Other notable locals include a brewery owner with deep roots here on Sado Island, and a 92-year-old former English teacher who never misses his French lessons. These are just a few of the many people who have chosen Sado as their home, and while they all have their own reasons for living here, they all agree that their neighbors are the island’s greatest charm. While maintaining a comfortable distance from each other, people are always ready to lend a hand to others whenever needed. Avoiding the insular closeness of some small communities, Sado offers a respect for privacy uniquely tempered by openness and camaraderie. This respectful warmth and hospitality create a welcoming atmosphere that not only comforts the Island’s residents, but also extends an open hand to travelers.

Nestled in the lush countryside of Sado Island’s Ogi Town, Shukunegi—a village once made prosperous via the shipping trade— stands a charming traditional house. The main building, a relocated Japanese home originally built during the Kaei era (1848–1854), showcases works by its owner, ceramic artist Tosei Watanabe. Walking through the main house, guests are welcomed by a nemunoki(silk tree) before arriving at a detached guest room overlooking a vast expanse of rice fields. Beyond the fields, the sea stretches into the horizon, creating a tranquil atmosphere that feels worlds away from the hustle and bustle of city life.

After relaxing on the tatami floor, it's time for dinner in the main building. The dishes prepared by Akiko Watanabe, who serves as both proprietress and chef, are simple preparations showcasing the natural flavors of the ingredients. The seasonal ingredients from the island become more flavorful with each bite, and each guest is served a whole zuwaigani (snow crab), adding to the enjoyment. The meal concludes with a rice called classic-rice, specially made for this inn. Besting even the widely distributed Koshihikari rice, this traditionally-processed rice makes you want to ask for seconds! It's no surprise that in 2023, this inn received the Niigata Local Gastronomy award for their carefully prepared, comforting meals.

For those craving a soothing hot spring bath, the inn offers a shuttle service to Onyado Ogi-no-Yu, just a five-minute drive away. This 100% pure, high-alkalinity hot spring is renowned for its skin-smoothing properties, featuring a luxuriously silky texture with no added water—allowing guests to fully experience the natural therapeutic effects of the water, straight from the source.

Without pretense, this inn honestly and carefully uses quality ingredients. It's a place that reminds you of important things often forgotten in daily life.

Sado Island, the largest island in the Sea of Japan, offers diverse charms in every direction—north, south, east, and west making it impossible to explore fully in just a day or two. For those looking to take their time and immerse themselves in the island’s beauty, Guest Villa on the bi-ichi may be the perfect choice.

Owned by Sannobu Yamauchi, who relocated from Yokohama to Sado after living in Hawaii and working in the hotel industry, this multi functional facility seamlessly combines a guesthouse, restaurant, and function hall under one roof—ensuring an exceptionally comfortable stay. The accommodations include three double rooms and two twin rooms, all carefully designed by minka, a Niigata-based bedding select shop specializing in sleep research, guaranteeing a truly restful night.

Ultimately, the location is the star of the show.  From the second-floor lounge, the dazzling blue waters of Mano Bay stretch out before you. Whether you’re swaying in a hammock for an afternoon nap or diving into a good book, this stunning view is the ultimate luxury. The shared lounge also features a projector, allowing guests to enjoy a home-theater experience. Whether you rent the entire house with friends and family or connect with fellow travelers along the way, this guesthouse serves as the perfect base for exploring Sado at your own pace.

Adding to the charm, the owner is also the fourth-generation proprietor of Hayasuke-ya, a long-established maker of igoneri, a traditional Sado soul food. If you’d like to know more about local cuisine, feel free to ask him questions, as his deep knowledge of local cuisine makes him a great resource for discovering the island’s unique flavors.

On the first floor is the delicious French-Italian restaurant "Seisuke next door" (dinner courses require reservations) - a great place to conclude a perfect day with a delicious meal.

For an extended stay filled with relaxation, stunning views, and local flavors, Guest Villa on the bi-ichi is a destination in itself.

Opened in 2024 on the mountainside overlooking Sado’s cityscape, "Nemariya" is an eco-conscious inn that embraces an old-yet-new Japanese ethical lifestyle, built entirely from reclaimed wood. Over several years, the land—spanning 60,000 square meters—was carefully cultivated, drawing fresh spring water from the mountains, running entirely off-grid electricity, heating baths with firewood, and using composting toilets that return waste to the earth. This is truly an environmentally sustainable, ethical lodging experience.

Every part of the building is made from reclaimed wood sourced from Sado Island, and traditional construction techniques have been used not only for the exterior but also for the interior, where the floors and walls are uniquely crafted from a blend of aged materials. The result is a collection of distinctive and one-of-a-kind rooms. From the second-floor terrace, guests can take in breathtaking panoramic views of Sado’s mountains.

At Nemariya, you can embrace the joy of simplicity while reconnecting with nature’s wonders. It’s a place that reminds you of the freedom of unstructured time and the forgotten essentials of life.

Just under a 20-minute drive from Ryōtsu Port, nestled at the foot of the mountains, is “Nōka Minshuku Miraisato”, a farm-stay inn run by Mr. Itō. Believing that "it’s essential for rural areas, which sustain food production, to be vibrant and enjoyable," he moved to Sado in 2020. Since 2022, he has been cultivating rice in terraced fields without pesticides, and in 2024, he took over the care of approximately 100 apple trees.

"Growing apples presents challenges that are quite different from rice farming. For modern apple varieties, pesticide-free cultivation is extremely difficult. This year, I’ve reduced pesticide use by 20%, and my goal is to cut it by 50% in the future, aiming to produce apples that are kind to both the environment and people," he explains.

During visits to restaurants and sake breweries, the name “Itō’s apples” frequently came up—a testament to their popularity. Trusted and loved by the community, Itō is creating a gateway to rural living and agriculture through hands-on farming experiences.

"The mountains transform with the seasons, the sea is crystal clear and beautiful, and the landscapes of satoyama (traditional rural countryside) are shaped by people’s hands. Sado is an island overflowing with charm, where traditions have been passed down for hundreds of years!"

A stay at Miraisato offers a rare opportunity to reconnect with nature—feeling the wind, listening to birdsong, and immersing yourself in the beauty of the land.

In Shukunegi, at the southern tip of Sado Island that once prospered from Kitamaebune trading ships, you can experience tarai boat rides at 'Hangiri.' Board a handmade hangiri (washtub boat) and head out to sea. 

Though it might seem scary at first to float so close to the water's surface, these boats offer a surprisingly stable ride while providing stunning views of the open sea. While there are various courses ranging from 15 to 45 minutes, the recommended '20-minute Sunset and Evening Calm Course' is especially memorable. The sky turning red between the rugged rocks will surely be a highlight of your trip. The boatmen are quite diverse - from Mr. Keiji Kaneko, a local who crafts the boats himself, to a woman from France on a working holiday! 

As you cruise along chatting and asking questions, you're bound to fall even more in love with Sado Island.

“If I were working in the city, I wouldn’t be able to live like this. In urban areas, ingredients and seasons don’t matter. I want everything to begin and end in Sado.”

So says Gilles Stassart, a French-born chef who opened La Pagode in 2022, right across from Myōsen-ji Temple’s Five-Story Pagoda. Having launched restaurants across Europe and China before settling in Gunma, Gilles eventually found his way to Sado Island, where he now runs La Pagode with his partner, Tomo. But Gilles is far more than just a chef—he is also a contemporary artist, editor, photographer, writer, farmer, and poultry keeper.

At the heart of their restaurant stands a wood-fired oven, the kitchen’s guardian spirit. Spending nearly 12 hours a day in the kitchen, Gilles relies on this oven for much of his cooking.

"Between 300 to 400 degrees is the optimum temperature for pizza, and there is another temperature for pain de campagne. We roast fish at night, and even after the fire goes out on Monday and beyond, we use the remaining heat of the oven.” Controlling both temperature and heat intensity is no easy task.

"We use firewood cut from the forests of Sado. It's hard to find good bacon in Japan, so we make everything ourselves: bacon, ham, salami, smoked salmon. About 90% of the ingredients are local. Mountain vegetables in spring, game meat in winter. We choose ingredients with as few pesticides as possible. This restaurant has a local community, so it's surprisingly easy to find local ingredients."

Indeed, despite its location across from a major tourist attraction, La Pagode is also a gathering place for locals, where people casually drop by to chat and unwind.
(Pictured: “Homemade Bacon & and eggs raised in the Courtyard of La Pagod Tartine” – ¥1,150)

A True Gentleman: Embodying the Spirit of Sado

One of the regulars at La Pagode is Hiromi Homma: a remarkably active man who inherited a mountain from his grandfather. With a chainsaw in the back of his truck, he spends his days planting and felling trees, stopping by La Pagode after finishing his work.

Residing in Ogikubo, Tokyo until the fifth grade, he was then evacuated to Sado during the war. He remained there through high school before taking a gap year and entering the University of Tokyo’s Faculty of Humanities and Social Sciences . After graduation, he joined a major publishing company, only to be dismissed during his three-month probation period due to political beliefs.

He then worked as an English teacher at a high school in Nagano Prefecture, before moving to Niigata. He taught at Niigata Commercial High School, Sado Aikawa High School, Niigata Kita High School, and Hokuetsu High School, before returning to Sado and teaching until he was 78 years old – over the decades, he has cultivated a well-deserved reputation as an English expert.

"I chose Flaubert for my graduation thesis, but now I want to study French, so I listen to a radio course for 15 minutes every day. I started going to La Pagode about two years ago, and I keep Gilles updated on my life – in French."

Having traveled to 19 countries, Honma remains curious and adventurous even at the age of 92. So. what does he love most about Sado?

"It's rich in nature. And the people here are very sincere. It's great to be able to meet people who always present themselves as they truly are."

Four years ago, husband-and-wife duo Kaoru and Sayuri Ito left their restaurant in Nagaoka and relocated to Sado Island to open their own restaurant. Recognizing “that many accommodations in the area offer lodging without meals,” they decided to serve breakfast starting from 7:30 AM—a rare find.

The six-course dinner (¥5,800) begins with Shinano Red potage, followed by colorfully grilled vegetables, a dish arranging stone-grilled ayu (sweetfish) caught by cast net fishing in the Hamochi River from August to October, roasted fish, and Sado beef grilled on rice straw served with Yamadoritake-modoki mushrooms. Each dish concentrates the flavors of Sado, pairing perfectly with the available natural wines. For the finale, a bite- sized portion of freshly cooked rice is served, with the proprietors insisting that all customers “please try the rice by itself first!” As soon as you taste this single, exceptionally delicious bite, it is easy to understand why. This pesticide-free 'Tenteko Rice' is grown by Ryutaro Ito, who moved to Sado Island in 2015. This same rice is used in their local specialty onigiri, mixed with sazae (turban shell) from the nearby Ogi region—an absolute delight.

As we savor the black fig tart (Violette de Solliès) for dessert, we ask the couple what they love most about Sado.

“The ingredients are great. And so are the people. When we opened, the locals helped us out without being pushy. They're neither overbearing, nor cold– we all live together at just the right distance."

And what about challenges? “None at all,” they answer with a smile.

The couple’s infectious warmth fills the entire space, and as we leave we commit to one firm resolution: next time, we’re coming back for breakfast.

"The richness of ingredients is a big attraction of Sado. We try to use local ingredients as much as possible, while taking into account unique regional and seasonal characteristics," says Soba Mozem owner Kazuo Saito. 

With 10 years of Tokyo-centric experience in soba restaurants, Japanese cuisine, and Italian cooking, Saito – a native of Sado who returned to his hometown 11 years ago –offers a rich soba kaiseki course for ¥2,500. The meal begins with a tamagoyaki (Japanese omelette) made with free-range eggs and a broth of smoked flying fish. The aroma of the broth fills your mouth as you savor it, offering a moment of simple culinary joy. Next comes marinated mackerel with green vinegar made from persimmon vinegar and cucumber, followed by spring rolls filled with Sado-grown vegetables, served with sea salt. Then comes the main event – soba. The restaurant's signature "Agodashi Bukkake Soba" features 100% buckwheat noodles, with a rich broth that gently complements and enhances the flavor of the noodles. This is a dish unique to Sado, where a distinct broth culture has developed, quite different from Edo-style soba. Grating natural "oni-gurumi" (a type of wild nut) over the soba adds a robust wild flavor.

Saito-san says he wants to "eventually revitalize the island," and together with a French chef and wine bar owner on the island, active as a member of UMAMI Labo. Using ingredients from Sado, he works to promote Sado cuisine through events and other activities. 

These soba noodles made by a local chef who knows the island inside and out, offers a one-of-a-kind fresh experience, which can only be enjoyed here on Sado.

For over 30 years, Kimpuku has been a go-to spot for yakitori, earning the love of the local community. Grilled over premium binchotan charcoal, their skewers range from classic favorites to daily specials. Popular choices include negima (chicken and scallion), ume shiso yaki (chicken with plum and perilla), and tsukune (chicken meatballs). They also offer creative options like skewers of tomato or garlic sprouts wrapped in pork. A unique specialty you can only find here is the inarizushi cheese yaki, a one-of-a-kind fusion of flavors.

Another highlight is the sausages from "Henjin Mocco", a renowned German-style sausage and salami maker in Sado.

As for drinks, the selection is extensive—ranging from local Sado sake to craft beer, shochu, and wine. One of the joys of dining at Kimpuku is pairing your skewers with the perfect drink to match your mood.

Located in the Mano area, about a 40-minute drive from Ryōtsu Port, this hidden gem sits near the sea, offering breathtaking views of the sunset over Mano Bay. Known among those in the know, this restaurant has gained a stellar reputation for its carefully crafted dinners that highlight seasonal ingredients and exceptional wines.

The dishes feature freshly harvested vegetables from the restaurant’s own farm and an abundance of local seafood. Each course is thoughtfully paired with the perfect natural wine, creating a dining experience that is both refined and deeply connected to the land. The restaurant serves an omakase (chef’s choice) course only, ensuring that each meal is a curated delight.

The wines, made without pesticides, additives, or artificial chemicals—from vineyard cultivation to fermentation—are a rare find on the island, making them a true highlight of the experience.

Reservations must be made at least two days in advance.

Founded in 1892, Obata Shuzo began gaining international recognition after winning a gold medal in the International Wine Challenge in 2007 for their Daiginjo sake, and has since been producing sake loved both in Japan and overseas. Their flagship brand, "Manotsuru," offers a smooth and refreshing taste, with the island's warmth adding a gentle touch, making it a favorite among both Japanese and international fans alike.

"I grew up in a place surrounded by the sea, so I often thought about the other side of the sea from a young age. I wanted to spread the word about sake to the world, so I started exporting our products overseas early on. Now, about 20% of our sales are to the United States, Asia, and Europe," says Managing Director Obata Rumiko. Obata was the driving force behind the creation of this unique "school brewery," which is separate from the main Obata Shuzo brewery.

The former Nishi-Mikawa Elementary School, now an abandoned school, was once called "the school with the most beautiful sunset in Japan," and it stands on a stunning hilltop. Taking advantage of the building's structure, the site has been repurposed as a sake brewery since 2014. The sake rice used comes from Sado's terraced rice paddies, and the by-products like sake lees and koji are served as fermented dishes at the on-site cafe. Additionally, the brewery uses renewable energy from solar panels, making it a "sustainable brewery" that is mindful of the environment.

"The climate of Sado is one in which the mountains, villages, rivers, and seas play in harmony. With that in mind, we brew a sake called <KANADEL> at the school brewery."

As the name <pizzicato> suggests, the light, bouncy, slightly effervescent flavor makes it a refreshing drink, and it goes well with the delicious seafood and mountain produce of Sado– an ideal souvenir.

"I believe schools and breweries have a natural connection. They are landmarks that are always there, no matter when you visit. It’s a different kind of landscape that you won’t find in production. I hope that the people involved can see it as their alma mater.”

Unique to this school brewery, numerous programs and activities are offered to guests – including one-day workshops with guest instructors, a fermentation café, tasting courses, tours, and even accommodations – allowing visitors to learn about sake brewing from various angles.

In the mountainous region of the island, a concrete building suddenly appears. This is "Nikara," a bookstore run by Yukino Yoneyama. Having served as a bookstore manager in Shodoshima, she learned the ins and outs of book sourcing. When her husband, Kō Yoneyama of Tagayasudō, moved to Sado Island, Yukino followed him.

However, Sado Island is vast, and without a driver's license, she started to feel isolated in a place she didn’t know. During this time, books became her emotional anchor.

"I didn't come to Sado to run a bookstore," she recalls, but now, four years after moving, she says she is having a lot of fun.

"Every day has been fun since I started the bookstore. Customers come from all over the island, so it motivates me to work hard for them. Some customers are knowledgeable about books, and they teach me things. On the other hand, some customers come to talk about society and their worries, and I hope that even though I run a store in the mountains of Sado, it will be a place where people can come and talk about what is fun and what is worrying them. I needed such a presence, and it is reassuring in life. I want to be an open person like the two people at La Pagode."

With novels, photo books, critiques, and zines, it’s interesting to engage in literary discussions along with the carefully selected books by Yukino. You're sure to find your own favorite book.

" This is a small village in the mountains, though we are not overly bothered. We are able to operate our shop at a comfortable distance. I think the fact that they leave us alone shows that they trust us, so I'm grateful for that." That is the charm that is common to the bookstore Nikara.

Located at the northernmost tip of Sado Island, about a 50-minute drive from Ryōtsu Port, Futatsugame is one of Sado’s most iconic scenic spots. The name, meaning “Two Turtles,” comes from the resemblance of its two small islands—Okinoshima and Isonoshima—to a pair of turtles resting side by side.

The landscape changes dramatically with the tides, and the area boasts some of the clearest waters in all of Sado. Futatsugame Beach has been recognized as one of Japan’s Top 100 Seaside Bathing Spots, and along with Ōnogame, it has earned two stars in the prestigious Michelin Green Guide Japan.

During the swimming season, visitors can stay at nearby hotels or campgrounds, making it the perfect destination for a summer getaway.

Once a key processing facility for ore extracted from the Sado Mines, the Kitazawa Flotation Plant now stands as a striking industrial ruin. With its tiered concrete structure overgrown with vegetation, it has drawn comparisons to the world of the film; Laputa: Castle in the Sky, making it a popular sightseeing spot.

Flotation is a method used to extract minerals from mined rock. The process involves crushing the ore into fine particles, mixing it with water and flotation agents like surfactants, and then agitating the mixture in a tank. The precious metal particles adhere to bubbles, rising to the surface, where they are collected. This was reportedly the first facility in Japan to successfully extract gold and silver using this method.

In recent years, the site has been illuminated during the tourism season, creating a magical nighttime atmosphere against the starry sky—an unforgettable sight for visitors.

Marcus Soto, originally from New York, goes to bed at 7 PM and wakes up at midnight to make bread. He moved to Sado Island about 30 years ago, leaving his previous life as a percussionist behind. 

A central figure in the Sado community, Marcus specializes in hard breads like country bread and rye bread. When he first opened his shop, local customers were surprised by how hard the bread was, but now, even older folks are big fans of these hearty loaves. During the shoot, customers kept coming in, buying bread in large quantities. Additionally, the shop’s signature apple pie, made with plenty of apples from Nishimikawa, has a perfect balance of tartness and sweetness.

"Sado still retains the scenery of old Japan," says Marcus. "Next time, come to my villa!" 

With such a charming owner, it’s no surprise that the bread here is delicious.

Mr. Ko Yoneyama, the shop owner, moved to Sado Island after visiting the island's book festival 'HELLO! BOOKS.' When the Osaka donut shop 'Atari Kishariki-do' came to Sado, he helped them out, which eventually led him to open his own donut shop in 2016. 

The main donuts are plain and millet brown sugar flavors. These simple donuts, which maximize the natural flavors of their ingredients, have such an addictive taste that you'll want to eat them all. Other seasonal varieties are sometimes available, such as Lemon glaze made with lemons from Sado, chocolate, custard made with rice flour.

The shop, located in a former soba restaurant, has a humble, nostalgic feel, much like the donuts themselves. Together with the nearby shop "Nikara," it’s a delicious stop worth making on a drive around the island.

When you get hungry during your walk, try 'Medetai-yaki' made with Sado-grown brown rice flour. Whether you prefer sweets or savory foods, you'll be fully satisfied with these taiyaki (fish-shaped pastries) filled to the tail with various fillings like red bean paste, red bean paste with walnuts, ham and cheese, or even chikuwa tempura (fish cake)! Located just a stone's throw from the washtub boat dock, you can enjoy your snack while taking in the ocean view.

Sado: A Land of Stunning Nature and Rich Culinary Culture. Sado Island, the largest island off Honshu, is about 1.4 times the size of Tokyo’s 23 wards and is known for its breathtaking nature and abundant food culture. To reach Sado from mainland Niigata Prefecture, visitors can take either a jetfoil or car ferry operated by Sado Kisen.

For getting around the island, renting a car at the port is the best option. Additionally, bicycles can be rented from Sado Outdoor Base, Minami-Sado Tourist Information Center, and Kirarium Sado. The local bus network is also well-developed, making it a great choice for those who want to take their time exploring.

Sado, surrounded by the Sea of Japan, is a paradise for seafood lovers, offering delicacies like yellowtail (buri) and snow crab (zuwai-gani). Its premium Koshihikari rice and sake are must-tries, alongside Okesa persimmons, black figs (Violette de Solliès), and Sado beef. The variety of seasonal flavors is endless, making at least a 2-night, 3-day stay ideal to truly indulge in its culinary delights.

A perfect Sado itinerary? Savor exquisite local dishes, drive along scenic coastal routes, visit breathtaking natural landmarks, and unwind in a soothing onsen.

Beyond its food and scenery, the warm and welcoming people make Sado a place you’ll want to return to in every season. Visit once, and you’ll surely want to come back.

The souvenir shop at the ferry terminal is a great place to visit, as it gathers the best selections recommended by souvenir shops and gift stands from various tourist facilities across the island. Just browsing through the collection is enjoyable on its own.

One highly recommended spot is “Shinsen Kukan YORANKA-SHA,” the largest direct sales market on Sado Island, filled with products that are truly Made in Sado. This JA-operated market attracts both locals and tourists looking for unique Sado souvenirs.

You’ll find a wide variety of seasonal delicacies produced in Sado, including fresh vegetables, locally grown rice, fresh seafood, and processed goods. If you’re planning a long stay, you can buy ingredients and cook your own meals. For souvenirs to enjoy after returning home, Sado-grown rice, seafood products, and fruit-based jams are particularly popular.

Additionally, the store offers many must-try local specialties, such as “Igoneri” (a traditional seaweed jelly), “HENJIN-MOKKO sausages & salami,” “Sado Bancha tea,” and “Sado Butter.”

This is definitely a place to visit before leaving the island—make sure to add it to your itinerary for the final stop on your trip!

PHOTOGRAPHY: Yoko Takahashi
TEXT: Mika Koyanagi