OKI ISLANDS

The Oki Islands, located 40–80 km north of the Shimane Peninsula in the Sea of Japan, are an archipelago composed of four inhabited islands. Three of them—Nishinoshima, Nakanoshima, and Chiburijima—are collectively known as Dōzen, while the larger island to the northeast is called Dōgo. The islands have an ancient history. Once part of the Eurasian continent, archaeological evidence suggests that people were already living here during the Jōmon period. The present-day landscape of Oki, however, is believed to have taken shape around six million years ago through volcanic uplift.

As this geological background suggests, the defining feature of the Oki Islands is their dramatic scenery. Towering sea cliffs carved by the rough waves of the Sea of Japan—most famously the magnificent Matengai cliffs—possess a raw power rarely encountered elsewhere. On Chiburijima, the striking Sekiheki(Red Cliffs) stretch for nearly one kilometer, their reddish-brown rock faces forming a massive precipice that overwhelms the viewer and evokes the immense power of the earth and the passage of time etched into its surface.

The islands are also steeped in cultural history. Both Emperor Go-Toba and Emperor Go-Daigo were exiled here, and later the islands prospered through trade with the merchant ships known as Kitamaebune, cultivating a rich local culture. For those interested in cultural history, it is worth reading From Hōki to Oki, an essay written by Lafcadio Hearn (Koizumi Yakumo) during his visit to the islands. This unique geography and deep cultural heritage can be felt throughout Oki. There are over 150 shrines, while cattle and horses roam freely across open pastures.

Towering cedar trees, some said to be　hundreds or even thousands of years old, stand across the islands like sacred guardians. Among them, the 2,000-year-old Yao-sugi and the 600-year-old Kabura-sugi possess an unmistakable spiritual presence. Of course, the pleasures of travel here extend to food as well. The waters around Oki—where warm and cold currents meet— yield an abundance of seafood. Local specialties include Oki beef, Oki soba made from 100% buckwheat flour, shimame (dried squid) rice bowls, and turban shell bowls, offering flavors that can only be experienced on these islands.

If you need a break from traditional Japanese cuisine, you can escape to an Italian auberge, a coffee roastery, or a small donut shop. Each is exceptionally delicious, yet they share a common philosophy: local ingredients, prepared with absolute simplicity. There are no 24-hour convenience stores here. As remote islands, logistics are not always smooth. Instead, residents grow vegetables in their gardens, go out fishing, and even make their own small-batch shōyu-miso in place of soy sauce. With fewer choices available, people rely on ingenuity. Harvests are shared with neighbors, and newcomers to the islands are gently taught how things are made. Everyday life carries a quiet warmth. Spending time here, one begins to feel that perhaps this is what true wealth really means. The landforms, the food, the animals—everything feels elemental and close to the origins of life itself. A powerful vitality and a sharpened sense of essence coexist here in vivid contrast. That is the enduring charm of the Oki Islands.

The inhabited islands of the Oki Archipelago are divided into Dozen and Dogo. Entô occupies a prime  location in Nakanoshima, Ama Town — the gateway to Dozen. Reborn in 2021 as a base where visitors can stay within the Oki UNESCO World Geopark, the property connects visitors and local residents. The facility comprises two buildings — Entô Annex NEST and Entô BASE — with all 36 rooms overlooking the sea.. Wide windows frame expansive views of the Dozen Caldera, allowing the scenery to flow seamlessly from bed or chair. Even the building's positioning was calibrated degree by degree to capture the perfect view from every window. One feels as though suspended above the sea, gazing out at an untouched earth stretching before them. Watching boats drift past, or simply resting in the afternoon —this is luxury at its simplest. Suite guests are welcomed with a drink such as wine or grape juice.

For those curious about the origins of the island, the Geo Lounge is open on the ground floor. The exhibition space, Geo Room "Discover," objects representing the natural landscape of Dozen are displayed entirely in white, offering guests a preview of the island's history, topography, and native flora and fauna. (The white finish is intentional; an invitation for visitors to discover the real thing with their own eyes.) Daily at 4:00 pm, guided commentary is offered through "Entô WALK," a program warmly recommended for those who wish to deepen their understanding. A municipal library branch is also located on-site, and the public spaces outside the guest rooms  create opportunities to meet local residents.

Nishinoshima is the largest island in Dozen, with a population of around 2,500, and is home to some of Oki’s most iconic sights, including the sheer cliffs of Matengai and the natural arch of Tsutenkyo. However, the island has long struggled with a shortage of accommodation.  Recognising its potential as a workcation destination, this property was established in January 2026 with the aim of bridging that gap. A traditional farmhouse over 100 years old has been carefully renovated into a hotel and café, creating a space that feels instantly relaxed. The project involved a Matsue-based design firm that has also worked on buildings in Nishinoshima and the Ama Town municipal office; the original structural pillars have been carefully preserved and integrated into a contemporary aesthetic. Guest rooms are equipped with desks and monitors, making them well-suited for remote work. A discount is available for guests staying multiple consecutive nights, making the property an ideal choice for extended stays. On the ground floor, a café offers pulled pork burgers and hot dog, perfect for a break while exploring the island.

Perched atop a hillside in the Urago　district,  this welcoming inn is known for its nostalgic atmosphere and outstanding seafood cuisine. Guest rooms open onto sweeping views of the sea around Nishinoshima, and the scenic bath lets you soak while taking in the ocean view, the perfect way to wash away travel fatigue. Dinner is a generous celebration of island flavours: the celebrated rock oysters, freshly caught fish from nearby waters, and much more. Breakfast, too, is a delight — steamed rice from the San'in region served alongside local specialities such as simmered Oki arame seaweed and dried nodoguro from the Sea of Japan, providing an energising start to the day.

Opened in 2024, “Jinakachi” is a one-of-a-kind ocean-view suite with a semi-open-air bath.. Throughout the room, the spirit of the island makes itself felt: lighting repurposed from fishing vessels, and a foot throw dyed with mud at a local kiln— details that speak quietly but unmistakably of place.

A thirty-minute drive from Saigō Port brings you to the hamlet of Igo, home to a population of barely thirty souls.　Occupying a private estate of approximately 3,000 square metres on the northernmost highland of the Oki Archipelago, Shinayashiki is an auberge that welcomes just one party per day. A 120-year-old traditional farmhouse has been fully renovated. Guests are greeted by a main building crowned with the distinctive red tiles of Sekishū-gawara, produced in Shimane Prefecture, and a stone garden crafted using traditional techniques of the island. Stepping inside, one is met by a generous earthen-floored entrance and an open kitchen. In the living room, shelving fashioned from reclaimed timber and flooring of Oki cedar hint at the warmth that awaits. The centrepiece of the stay is a one-of-a-kind Italian full-course dinner, composed with each guest solely in mind.

The owner and chef, from Shizuoka and Hyogo respectively, came to Oki to create the inn they themselves would most want to stay in, one where food is the priority above all else.They speak of the island's abundance with considered conviction. "The winters are harsh, so preserved foods have flourished here. And because the volcanic soil limits the variety of vegetables and seafood available, the range is not wide. But that constraint is itself a form of richness. The people of Oki know intimately how to bring out the best in whatever is in season." Vegetables are grown from the soil up — their kitchen garden now yields a generous variety, thanks to the guidance of a local farming mentor. "A rice farmer gives us rice bran; someone passes us a fish on an evening walk. The warmth of the people here is one of Oki's greatest gifts." After a dinner that distills the energy of the island across all four seasons, the night opens onto a sky dense with stars, and mornings arrive with a clarity of sunrise that feels new each time.  Conversations around the fire pit can last long into the night. Staff withdraw entirely one hour before each meal, leaving guests to inhabit the space in absolute privacy — free to rest, to linger, to
simply be. This is a stay where you savour food at its most elemental, move through long hours of stillness, and perhaps rediscover what it truly means to live well.

One of the greatest highlights of the Oki Islands is striking natural scenery, best seen from the water on a sightseeing cruise. Departing from Urago Port, the A Course around the Kuniga Coast offers an approximately 80-minute journey past some of the islands’ best-known  formations, including Matengai Cliff, Tsutenkyo Arch, and Tenjōkai, all viewed from remarkably close range. If the weather is rough, the route may be replaced with a one-hour captain’s choice course adapted to sea conditions. From the deck, visitors can fully immerse themselves in the raw and untamed beauty of the islands — sheer cliffs, rugged coastlines, and volcanic landscapes shaped over millions of years by wind and sea.

This inn was established by a craftsman who honed his skills across six sushi restaurants in Osaka, Matsue, and beyond. On the ground floor, lunch brings a seafood rice bowl, while evenings offer authentic sushi and seasonal small plates. The sashimi served at dinner — hiramasa, aji, tuna, and octopus — is sourced entirely from the waters around Oki, and the squid from Nishinoshima, served as nigiri, is wonderfully rich and sweet. Pull up a seat and strike up a conversation with the owner, whose restaurant name pays tribute to his son, as the evening unfolds over exceptional sushi and local sake.

Opened near Hishiura Port in 2025, this intimate sushi restaurant is run by chef Riku Tanimoto, who relocated to Ama Town after becoming deeply drawn to the islands’ natural beauty and layered history.
Having immersed himself in the local waters and seasonal rhythms of Oki, Tanimoto prepares sushi that reflects a profound understanding of the region’s seafood. Each piece is crafted with meticulous attention and quiet ingenuity, allowing guests to experience the character of Oki’s seasonal ingredients in their purest form. Inside the warmly lit restaurant, which seats only seven at the counter, diners can watch the chef’s precise movements up close while enjoying sushi unique to the islands alongside dishes such as sazae no iimushi — turban shell gently steamed with rice. The atmosphere is relaxed yet deeply attentive, offering not only exceptional sushi, but also a slower and more intimate experience of Oki itself.

Located on the second floor of Hishiura Port's ferry terminal, the Kinnyamonya-center, this restaurant is the first stop upon arriving in Ama Town. The menu is built around local ingredients including plump rock oysters but the signature Shimame-don made with Japanese flying squid is not to be missed. Another highlight is the monthly fish and meat plate, featuring the seasonal ingredients from the Oki Islands.
At the heart of the kitchen's philosophy is a commitment to Farm to Table: ingredients sourced from Ama Town, with the aim of returning economic benefit directly to local producers. The restaurant is guided by a spirit of openness — conceived not merely as a place to eat, but as a gathering point where all manner of people come together, connected by the simple pleasure of good food. This openness extends to the menu, which includes hors d’oeuvres platters and vegan bento, and continues to evolve to suit a range of needs.

This restaurant specialises in Oki beef wagyu, born and raised on the islands With production, sales, and preparation handled entirely in-house, lunch offers exceptional value — a three-cut Oki beef platter for just 2,000 yen. In the evening, yakiniku, shabu-shabu, and sukiyaki are washed down with local sake. A butcher shop is also on-site, with nationwide delivery available.

This Italian restaurant is run by cousins both born in Ama Town, owner-chef Chizuru Kuwamoto and sommelier Yumiko Masuda.The kitchen eschews artificial seasonings, drawing instead on the finest local produce — yet what sets the restaurant apart is its deliberate refusal to lean into a rustic countryside concept. The menu changes daily, designed by a chef who trained in Matsue, Tokyo, and Florence. On one particular evening in March, dinner opened with a panna cotta of new potatoes from Muraz Farm, an organic vegetable farm in Ama Town, accompanied by two varieties of cheese sauce. This was followed by a ragù of fish and shellfish fragrant with butterbur shoots, herb-crusted Kuroya, and a semifreddo of amanatsu citrus. The house-baked bread is also exceptional. It comes as no surprise that this celebrated restaurant is cherished by locals and visitors alike.

The ocean is right there. At this enviable location, guests can enjoy house-roasted coffee and rice flour confections. The carefully poured drip coffee pairs beautifully with the signature Engadiner Nusstorte, a richly textured walnut tart, while the intensely flavoured matcha affogato is equally recommended. True to the spirit of the space, a monthly morning session (reservation required) offers the chance to savour the early hours in full. Drip bags are　also available for purchase, a fitting　memento or souvenir of the journey.

Matengai is among the most celebrated scenic landmarks in Oki. Carved by the erosive force of waves, this sheer cliff face rises 257 metres above sea level as though cleaved vertically by an enormous blade. It bears quiet witness to volcanic activity that occurred some six million years ago. In striking contrast, the surrounding pasturelands offer an altogether pastoral scene, where cattle and horses graze unhurriedly beneath an open sky. It is a place of singular character, where raw grandeur and an almost fantastical tranquillity exist side by side.

Those with the energy for it are encouraged to walk the Kuniga Coast trail from Matengai. Along the approximately 2.3-kilometre path leading down to Kuniga Beach, the remarkable arched rock formation of Tsutenkyo comes into full view. From spring through autumn, Oki-endemic wildflowers, including Oki dandelion and Oki thistle, bloom along the way. This is, without question, one of the defining highlights of any journey to Oki: a landscape of natural sculptural beauty that leaves a lasting impression.

On the island of Dogo, one of the rarest natural cedar forests in Japan has survived to this day. These trees are the descendants of cedars that sought refuge on Oki when it was still connected to the mainland during the glacial period some 20,000 years ago. Among the many remarkable specimens, three in particular are not to be missed: the Iwakura Chibusa Cedar, the Kabura Cedar, and the Yaohsugi Cedar within the grounds of Tamawakasu Shrine.

The Iwakura Chibusa Cedar, estimated to be around 800 years old, presents a form like no other — its trunk dividing into fifteen branches from which hang twenty-four roots of varying sizes. As it lies deep in the mountains, care should be taken on the approach roads. The Kabura Cedar stands alongside National Route 485. Approximately 600 years old, it rises in six trunks from a base that once supported twelve, forming a striking natural presence. The Yaohsugi Cedar is a designated National Natural Monument, with an estimated age of around 2,000 years. Legend holds that it was planted by Yaobikuni, a figure said to have lived to the age of 800. Stand before these ancient, majestic trees, survivors of an age long before travellers walked these paths, and feel their quiet, enduring power.

Chibu Village is a small community of approximately 600 residents, covering just 13.7 square kilometres. Its defining wonder is the Sekiheki — a stretch of sheer red cliffs extending for roughly one kilometre along the western coast of Chiburijima. The deeply gouged, red-brown rock face, a legacy of ancient volcanic activity, is nothing short of breathtaking. So exceptional is the landscape that it has been designated both a National Place of Scenic Beauty and a Natural Monument. The cliffs are particularly adored at sunset, when the deep blue of the sea and the warm tones of the rock meld in a striking contrast. While the site is accessible by car, a sightseeing boat is the recommended approach. From the water, the full, overwhelming scale of Sekiheki comes into view, an experience of another order entirely.

This site is counted among both the One Hundred Famous Waterfalls of Japan and the One Hundred Famous Waters of Japan, a distinction held by few places in the country. To the left and right of a sheer rock face, two waterfalls cascade: the male fall at approximately 50 metres and the female fall at 40 metres, while between them stands Dankyo Shrine in a serene setting. Passing through the torii gate, one enters an avenue of ancient cedar trees, and the atmosphere shifts to something altogether solemn and otherworldly. Legend has it that the site was discovered by the second head priest of Matsuo-zan Kōzan-ji Temple, guided there by a revelation in a dream.

The waters here have long been revered as waters of victory and longevity. For centuries, competitors in the island’s bull- sumo tradition and participants in the Oki Classical Sumo Tournament have drawn from the spring before competing. The remarkable longevity of people living in the surrounding area has further strengthened its sacred reputation. From the car park to the main hall is a gentle five-minute walk, a pleasant approach along the soft murmur of the Naku River.

One of Dogo's most celebrated scenic landmarks. When the setting sun aligns with a slender rock formation rising 20 metres from the sea, the effect is uncanny: the rock appears to be lit, like a candle. This miraculous sight reveals itself only on clear days when the water is calm, and is best seen from a sightseeing vessel. The possibility that the conditions may not align is part of its appeal, a reminder of the irreducible, uncontrollable beauty of the natural world.

After about a 20-minute climb from the parking area to the mountaintop, a massive rock perched in perfect balance suddenly comes into view. Known as Kasaneiwa (Heavy Rock), it is enshrined as the sacred object of worship at Koseishizuchi Shrine and revered as a stone believed to be inhabited by a deity—making it a powerful spiritual spot.

Whether the rock is a natural formation or the result of human intervention remains a mystery, but its overwhelming presence is undeniable. From the summit, sweeping views open up across the Seto Inland Sea, with islands such as Teshima and Ogijima visible in the distance. Be sure to wear comfortable, sturdy shoes when you visit.

This shrine is dedicated to Ise-no-Mikoto, the tutelary deity of the Kumi settlement, which is the largest source of obsidian in western Japan. Listed in the Engishiki Jinmyōchō at the rank of Myōjin Taisha, it is counted among the Four Grand Shrines of Oki. During the July annual festival, the Kumi Kagura, designated an Intangible Folk Cultural Property by the prefecture, is performed and dedicated throughout the night.

The dramatic coastal scenery of Kuniga, shaped over millennia by the erosive power of the Sea of Japan, is a sight of extraordinary force. Amid its jagged rock formations stands Kuniga Shrine, established in prayer for the prosperity and safety of Nishinoshima. The terrain underfoot is uneven, so sturdy, comfortable footwear is advised. Though the shrine’s history is relatively recent, founded in 1983, its presence among the elements carries a quiet divinity, standing watch over the safety of those who venture out to sea.  Goshuin stamps are available at the tourism association office at Beppu Port.

One of the four major shrines of Oki, designated as the Ichinomiya (highest-ranking shrine) of Oki Province during the Heian period.  The shallow inlet that extends before it is known as the Beach of the Gathering Squid. Legend holds that a squid once bit the hand of the enshrined deity, Yurahime-no-Mikoto, and that each autumn, vast shoals of squid gather at the shore in perpetual atonement for that act of transgression.

Halfway up Mount Takuhi, the highest peak in Dozen rising 452 metres above sea level, stands this shrine dedicated to Ohirumemuchi-no-Mikoto. Founded around the year 1000 CE, the sanctuary was rebuilt in 1732 and is the oldest surviving wooden structure in Oki, designated an Important Cultural Property of Japan. For centuries it has been venerated as the guardian deity of maritime safety by seafarers crossing the Sea of Japan, and its fame is such that it was depicted in the ukiyo-e print series Shokoku Hyakkei by both Utagawa Hiroshige and Katsushika Hokusai.
The shrine building, which appears to thrus outward from a great natural rock cavern, is a breathtaking sight,though reaching it requires a vertiginous climb of approximately two kilometres. The path passes through an area designated as a sacred plant community, where a rich variety of flora can be observed; visitors should, however, be mindful that pit vipers are known to inhabit the area.

This shrine was established to mark the 700th anniversary of the death of Emperor Gotoba, who was exiled to Ama Town following his defeat in the Jōkyū War. Its traditional Oki architectural style lends the grounds a sense of solemnity and quiet gravity. The expansive precinct, spanning 56,000 square metres, is lined with rows of cherry trees that guide visitors along the approach to the main hall. Directly in front of the shrine stands the Emperor Gotoba Museum, which exhibits documents relating to the emperor’s life and swords dedicated to Oki Shrine. It offers visitors who wish to deepen their understanding of Ama Town’s history and traditions an invaluable opportunity.

Just a short walk from Saigō Port, Kyōmiya Bunten is a curated shop selling stylish sundries and local souvenirs, rebuilt from the tea-by-weight store once run by the owner’s grandfather eighty years ago. Say it’s your first time in the Oki Archipelago and recommendations come fast: bakudan onigiri and Oki soba are a must, sazae-don is essential, and the red cliffs of Chiburijima should not be missed. This is, in every sense, the ideal starting point for an Oki journey. Settle in with a cup of coffee brewed by the owner and let the itinerary take shape. The shop stocks Okinoshima Shima Beer, fragrant with citrus, alongside local specialities such as Shussai-gama ceramics and indigo-dyed accessories from Amano Konya. On the second floor, a workspace called Kazamachi Office makes it easy to attend to any work that cannot wait. And on a good day, the shop's resident corgi, Ten-tenchō, may be on hand to greet you at the door.

Directly in front of Oki Shrine, dedicated to Emperor Gotoba, this souvenir shop offers a range of local confections, including Shiranami and Kinnyamonyasen manju, both local favourites. Also worth taking home is Fukugi-cha, a herbal health tea long cherished by island residents, and Okinokuni Ama no Shio, a locally produced salt alsooffered at Oki Shrine. Handcrafted works by local artisans are available as well, making this a shop well worth browsing at leisure. A cozy café space adjoins the shop, offering a peaceful retreat to pause and unwind along the way.

Recognisable by its charming striped awning, this bakery reopened at its current location in 2023. Traditional favourites such as shio-pan and anpan remain perennial draws, but the standout is the moshio butter bagel, made with seaweed salt and rice flour from Okinoshima Town. Heartier options, including an ebi-katsu burger and a cheeseburger, round out the lineup for those with a larger appetite.Through the kitchen window, staff of all ages can be seen baking together in high spirits, a sight that is quietly warming in itself. The flavours here are full of gentleness and familiarity,the kind you find yourself craving day after day.

The Oki Archipelago is a group of four inhabited islands adrift in the Sea of Japan. Each island has a character entirely its own, and the more one explores, the more its layered appeal reveals itself. The islands divide broadly into two groups: Dogo to the northeast, and Dozen to the west. The three islands of Dozen — Nishinoshima, Nakanoshima (Ama Town), and Chiburijima,are arranged around an enclosed sea, their landscape defined by a caldera formed through ancient volcanic activity.
Dogo, the largest island in Oki, is a place of greater scale: dense forests, cascading waterfalls, and historic townscapes that have endured across the centuries. On Nishinoshima, the sheer cliffs of Matengai, forged by volcanic forces and the rough seas of the Sea of Japan,are a sight of overwhelming power. Cattle and horses roam freely through meadows wrapped in mist, lending the landscape an almost otherworldly quality. Nakanoshima (Ama Town) bears the deep imprint of Emperor Gotoba, whose exile here left an indelible mark on the island's history and culture. Chiburijima offers something quieter: the red cliffs of Sekiheki, open pastoral scenery, and a deep, unbroken communion with nature. Dogo, meanwhile, holds the main port town that serves as the gateway to Oki, a history stretching back to antiquity, and forests threaded with clear- running streams.
Cuisine, too, is inseparable from any journey through Oki. Where warm and cold ocean currents converge, the sea yields rock oysters, white squid, and turban shells, while Oki beef completes a food culture of rare depth and richness.. The rock oysters in particular are dense and creamy in flavour, the defining taste of Oki in summer. Traditional dishes passed down across generations, fresh spring water drawn from the island, and local sake come together to offer a taste of the land’s way of life and long history. Nature, culture, faith, and food: in Oki, each is bound to the others in ways that run deep. A stay of two nights and three days is enough, not merely to sightsee, but to step inside island time itself.

No journey through Oki can be told without the ferry, the vessel that connects island to island. Across an archipelago of four inhabited islands, how one navigates the network of ferries and high-speed boats decides the entire character of the trip. For those with limited time, the key is deciding how to combine Dozen and Dogo. The most well-balanced option is a two-night, three-day route taking in both Dozen and Dogo. Begin by taking a ferry from the mainland into Dozen, then use the inter-island boats to move between the three islands of Nishinoshima, Nakanoshima (Ama Town), and Chiburijima. The three islands lie in close proximity to one another and are served by a reasonable number of sailings, making it easy to island-hop in a single day. From there, cross to Dogo by high-speed boat or ferry. Dogo, the largest island in Oki, is a place of expansive, unhurried nature encompassing forests, waterfalls, and historic streetscapes. Saving it for last gives the journey a sense of depth and resolution.
A little thought given to luggage goes a long way. Spending a night somewhere in Dozen and travelling light, or better yet, loading a rental car onto the ferry from the mainland, makes for a far more seamless experience. With the same car throughout, luggage stays put and there is no need to arrange a new rental at each island.
The time spent on the ferry is itself part of the journey. Stepping out onto the deck, feeling the sea breeze, watching the silhouette of one island fade as the next draws near,this is not merely transit. Let go of the urge to take the shortest route, leave a little space in your schedule, and the rhythm of Oki will begin to reveal itself. Ferry terminals tend to have small shops and corners dedicated to local specialities, and a last browse for souvenirs before departure is a pleasure in its own right. Photography books of the islands, local maps, and small booklets make fitting mementos of the journey, carrying the landscape home with you. Kyōmiya Bunten and Tsunakake, both featured in the BUY section, are also good sources for Oki's seaweed salt, dried fish, and processed sea vegetable products.

PHOTOGRAPHY: Shiori Ikeno
TEXT: Mika Koyanagi
ILLUSTRATION: Tomoko Nishio